The Return o John Munn by Wullie (Liam) Logan, the Bard of Dunloy

This is a wonderful verse by one of our excellent modern Ullans poets, a worthy successor to the Rhyming Weavers and I love it. It was written by Wullie Logan , oor ain Bard o Dunloy, known to the general public as Liam Logan, one of Northern Ireland’s leading Ulster-Scots enthusiasts and commentators. Liam has made a significant contribution to the recent interest in the language as a native speaker, broadcaster, journalist and writer. He is an esteemed member of the Ullans Academy.

Originally a native of Galdanagh, a townland of Dunloy in the northern part of County Antrim, (the Hame o the Hamely Tongue, a phrase he originally coined for the BBC programme “A Kist o Wurds”), although he has been resident in Bangor, Co Down for many years. Liam was educated at St. Joseph’s Primary School, Dunloy and St Macnissi’s College, Garron Tower. He holds an MBA from the University of Ulster. Employed in the National Health Service since the mid-1970s, Liam worked as Senior Planning Officer for the North and West Belfast Health and Social Care Trust. He was seconded to the [Department of Culture, Arts and Leisure] from 2007 until 2008 to head the Secretariat of the Ulster Scots Academy Implementation Group.

In 2009, Liam retired from public service to concentrate on his language consultancy work with the Language Diversity Project and is involved with a number of film and television projects currently in development. Additionally, Liam has provided voiceovers for websites as well as interactive media located at Ballymena Town Hall Museum, Civic and Arts Centre. 

If ye minded ivry minute o yer life, ye couldnae think

Aal ye mine is bits an bobs, whiles it’s jist a blink

There stuff that’s kina hazy an ither bits that’s clear

Here’s a tale haes styed wae me for nearly fifty year

McClements toul his story comin back frae some oul night.

We wur aal jammed in a motor squashed thegither brave an tight

Nae in car entertainment, nae heater, only crak

An I can mine thon story gye an clear when I luk bak.

McClements’ turn had come aroon, tae spin a yarn or two

Says he Ye’ll naw believe it but this story here is true.

O aal the jobs I iver dane, there wan I couldnae thole

Apprentice undertaker tae a boady Uel McDowell.

Thon furst day’s undertakin wus the last I iver done

A shepherd in the mountains by the name o Johnny Munn

A nighbour got him deed in bed in naethin but his socks

They sent for Sam an me tae get his boady in a box.

He’d lived up on thon hillside aal his working life

Too busy lambin yows an sich to get himsel a wife

Thon boady had a powerfu hump an crooked in ivry limb

He wudnae fit intae the box McDowell had brung wae him.

The hoose was wee, nae size ava, the stairs was steep an thin

We got thon coffin up the stairs an tried tae jam him in

His fit went doon, his heed cum up, the same the ither way

We tried it ivry road we could, wur heids was near astray.

So we dressed him an we pressed him an moved him tae the stair

Doonstairs some neighbour weemen pit a soart o wake on there

As we come roon a gye tight turn, oul Johnny near fell oot

But we spaltered doon the stairs ok an laid him at the fit.

McDowell he tuk a hemmer an he nailed his claes a flet

An he tuk a beer gye handy for his thrapple needed wet.

Wae the yin thing an anither sure we had couple mair

An a bite tae eat forby for thon oul boy had wrocht us sair.

A wheen o nighbours waked him weel wae sandwiches an drinkin

An shane ye cudnae hear yersel for chat an bottles clinkin

The oul wake yarns, the bits o crack, some eyes were gye an glazed

When in the dour come Reverend Moore, ye cud see he wasnae plaised.

He guldered, “Yes are sittin, drinkin, eatin, here deed sowl

An Johnny Munn is lyin there his body harly coul.

Ye mocked him hard in life” he gowled “Ye lached behin his bak.

Haes crookedness was made intae a target for yer crak.

Ye caaled him Humpy Dumpy an thon Oul Humpy Heed

An noo ye sit an yarn an drink laik he’s naw ower there deed”.

“The steuch o your hypocrisy wud mak a boady boak

I only hope ye mine the times ye made John Munn a joke.

A kindly word, a helpin han was missin whun he leeved

I doot that this would be the way he wanted tae be grieved”.

A lock o whited sepulchres, clean rotten tae yer herts

A gether up o naebodies, a wheen o cheeky blerts

Yes haesnae ony right tae sit an yarn wae drink an mate

An Johnny restin in his box is aff tae meet his fate

But then an odd thing happened; I heerd the tearin cloths

McDowell’s wee nails had ripped Munn’s claes an lowsed him in the box

He ris up frae the coffin an he gin a mighty groan

He seemed tae sprachle forrit an he let anither moan.

McDowell, the only man in there that kep a level heed

“It’s jist trapped gas” he says tae me, “it happens when yer deed”.

But ivry ither boady there ris up an run fer oot

An the screamin an the yellin could be heerd for miles aboot.

The Reverend Moore he went tae rin but cudnae reach the dour

Haes lang blak coat was cleeked on tae a nail stuck in the flure.

He lot a gowl an guldered as he tried tae get it loose

He pulled an tried tae free himsel, tae get oot o the hoose.

He must a thocht oul Johnny Munn was houlin brave an tight

But the very reverend gentleman was pittin up a fight

Wud Johnny drag him tae the grave or tak him doon tae hell?

Oul Reverend Moore he rowled his eyes an lut a powerfu yell

Leggo o me this minute, ye humpy heeded cur.

The reverend made a sprachle as he tried tae reach the dour.

Release me noo, Oul Humpy, ye crooked twisted blert

But aal that Reverend Moore heared wus the thump o his ain hert.

Ye dirty humpy divil, may yer fate be doon below,

May Oul Nick be oot tae meet ye wae haes pitchfork aal aglow.”

Wae that the Reverend’s claes they ripped, he brusted an got loose

An niver stapped haes rinnin till he made his ain wee hoose.

Though aal the folk had vanished, McDowell an me wur there

We got him in the in box again an tuk him tae the car

The hearse was parked in Johnny’s yard, we loaded him an went

An tuk him tae the church below an left him in the front.

I quet McDowells, McClements says, I niver heerd again

O Reverend Moore or Johnny Munn or his hoose up the glen

I doot thon undertakin job jist wasnae meant tae be

But thon’s the tale o Uel McDowell, oul Johnny Munn an me.

McClements finished takkin but naw yin word was heered

The maist o folk was sleepin an the rest was sorta feared

It’s been a lock o years since then, it seems laik yesterday

An I’ll mine it jist as clearly til they put me in the clay.

 

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The Rhyming Weavers

I was born in Bangor, County Down, and reared in the nearby little village of Conlig (a). In the Ulster Gaelic or Ulidian, this means “the stone of the hound” and the whole area was Gort-na-lig, “the field of stones”, so since childhood I have learned to live between a rock and a hard place. This is where I, as an Ulster Scot, am happiest to be, having been “ born and bred in a briar patch”. Bangor, the Light of the World (b), was once the site of one of the largest Christian schools in Ireland and became the focus of a religious life of great depth and power in the early medieval period of Europe. Here, were compiled the Ulster Cycle of Tales and the story of Cú-Chulainn (c), the Hound of Ulster, from whom Conlig is named.

My two Grannies were sisters, of the Sloan family, and spoke the Ulster Scotch Leid of the Ards. Granny Martha married her cousin, an English soldier of Highland Scottish descent called Samuel Adamson. She moved to England and died there in 1945, a year after I was born. My Granny’s cousin William lived in a little cottage in the bottom of the Tower Road in Conlig which leads directly to Helens’ Tower. He died at the Somme on 1st July, 1916 and has no known grave.

And that is why we built a Somme Museum at Whitespots, Conlig, and why we refurbished the Ulster Tower at Thiepval in France, which is a replica of Helens’ Tower (d). (Whitespots, actually Whites Pots, by the way, is Ulster Scotch or Ullans for Lead Mines).The Sloan family were originally from Lisbane, near Comber,Co Down. My great–grandfather, Alexander Sloan, was a direct descendant of that Alexander Sloan of Killyleagh who was the father of Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum, and the reason I entered Medicine.
To aid the war effort my other Granny Isabella and her sister Hannah went to Alfred Nobel’s dynamite factory in Ardeer, in Ayrshire, Scotland, to make shells for the Western Front, a highly dangerous job for which they were quite suited. There she met a young Scottish soldier called Robert Kerr and eventually settled in Knockshinnoch, New Cumnock, near the Sweet Afton River, so beloved of Robert Burns. There I spent a lot of my childhood. Later I visited my Granny following Granta’s retirement, first to Bangor, and then back again to Afton Bridgend in New Cumnock. Granta and Granny taught me all I knew about Burns.

My two Grannies’ Great Uncle was Edward Lennox Sloan, the Bard of Conlig, who wrote The Weavers’ Triumph in his native Ullans. He immigrated to Salt Lake City, Utah, USA in 1863 and died there in 1874 at the early age of forty four, a prominent member of the Mormon Community.

But the most widely acclaimed of the Ulster Folk Poets was James Orr of Ballycarry. Like my own ancestor Archibald Wilson of Conlig, he was a United Irishman and New Light (Ed: see Links below) Presbyterian, whose social concern for the poor was a hallmark of his work and who until his death continued to speak braid Ulster Scotch. Archibald was to be hanged at the Far Rocks outside our village aged twenty six for his part in the rebellion. He had been court marshalled in Newtownards and held in a cell in the Old Town Hall which you can still see. He was then buried in Bangor Abbey graveyard and I visited him every week on my way home to Conlig from Bangor Grammar School (e) … In school they thought I was from Ballymena (f).

Orr, however, was to survive the rebellion. My old friend, the late John Hewitt, in his Rhyming Weavers described some of Orr’s poems as being far beyond the capacity of any of our other rural rhymers. Two of his poems, The Penitent and The Irish Cottier’s Death and Burial can be described as undoubtedly the major successes in the scale of our whole vernacular literature, and it was only when he wrote in Ulster Scots he displayed his considerable literary skill with the greatest effect. In many respects he wrote better Scots than Burns, whose formal education was orientated entirely towards England and whose knowledge of Scottish literature was in his childhood confined almost entirely to early transmitted folk songs and folk tales.

The Ulster countryside, with its traditions and lore, was the inspiration of such Weaver Poets of the 1790’s and early 1800’s who have given us such a unique heritage. Educated in both Latin and Greek, they achieved a higher level of culture than any section of the peasantry in Western Europe. They were not merely writing an imitation of Robert Burns but belonged to a tradition that went back to Alan Ramsey and beyond in Scotland.

The works of Orr provide us with the richest information we possess about the social customs and traditions of everyday living in the Ulster countryside and many of his works are light-hearted and intended to entertain rather than to educate. My favourite is The Ode to the Potatoe (the Potatoe, spelt as it should be with an “e”, was the greatest export apart from music that the Ulster Scots brought with them to America) (g). According to Thomas Beggs, another well known folk poet, born in Glenwhirrey in 1789, Orr was the Shakespeare of the plebeian train and although, like many of this relatives, his circumstances were poor in material things, he had the rich resource of the countryside to sustain him, a countryside we must use to every means in our power to sustain and protect.

Following visits to the Friesian Academy in the Netherlands in 1978 and again in 1980 with a group of community activists. I wrote my vision for the development of Ulster Scots and Ulster Gaelic in the chapter “The Language of Ulster” as part of my book “The Identity of Ulster” in 1981. In 1992 I initiated the modern Ullans or Ulster Scots movement by publishing under my imprint Pretani Press (h) the Folk Poets of Ulster series to bring before the public some of the finest pieces of literature in the Ulster Scots language.

I further initiated the development of an Ullans or Ulster Scots Academy following a meeting in July 1992 with Professor R. J. Gregg in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. In the context of Ulster Scots as a recognised European Region minority language, the Ullans Academy would be modelled on the Friesian Academy. However, it would also promote the inter-relationships between Ullans and Ulster Gaelic (Ulidian) as well as the study of Ulster English and Northumbrian English in general. We await with interest whether this will be done properly.

The Ullans Speakers Association of Ballymoney, County Antrim, the United Ulster History Forum of the Ards Peninsula, the Culture and Heritage Society of Portavogie, County Down and the Monreagh Project, County Donegal have been encouraged to join as friends of the Ullans Academy. The perpetuation of an artificial dialect initiated by so called revivalists, unreadable to Ullans speakers, will be discouraged and the native speech of Antrim, Down and Donegal will be facilitated.

In this respect four recent publications by The Ulster Scots Agency for children, Sampson’s Titanic Journey; Scrabo, the Strangford Seal; Napoleon the Lonely Leopard and Finn’s Causeway Adventure, translated by the Ullans Speakers Association, are among the finest productions of the living Ullans Leid. Any attempt to censor or discriminate against them will be strongly resisted. We owe as much to our modern Ullans Poets, who are the true inheritors of the Rhyming Weavers.
Editor’s Notes(a) Conlig lies south of Bangor, midway between Bangor and Newtownards(b) Bangor, Light of the World is the title of one of Dr. Adamson’s books (Fairview Press, Bangor, 1979). It deals with the influence of Bangor monastery during the early Middle Ages.(c) On Cú Chulainn, see King of Ulster, Wednesday, December 17. 2008, and Sétanta, Friday, January 12. 2007.(d) See Somme Commemoration, By Cllr Dr Ian Adamson OBE, Tuesday, February 23. 2010(e) Archibald Wilson’s gravestone is one of the finest to survive from the United Irish period, and efforts have been made to preserve it. The gravestone reads;

‘Here lieth the body of Archibel Wilson of Conlig who departed this life June the 26 in anno 1798, eg 26yr. Morn not, deer frends, tho I’m no more. Tho I was martred, your eyes before I am not dead, but do sleep hear. And yet once more I will apeer. That is when time will be no more. When thel be judged who falsely sore. And them that judged will judged be. Whither just or on just, then thel see Purpere, deer frends, for that grate day. When death dis sumance you away I will await you all with due care. In heven with joy to meet you there.’

You can see an image on The grave of Archibald Wilson, Bangor Abbey churchyard.

(f) because Ulster-Scots is widely spoken in Ballymena, whereas it has disappeared from Bangor.

(g) The traditional belief is that Sir Walter Raleigh first brought the potato to Europe. In 1589 Raleigh planted the vegetable on his estate in Youghal, Co Cork. See Sir Walter Raleigh’s American colonies.

In 1992, at a spelling bee in Trenton, New Jersey, US Vice-President Dan Quayle indeed spelt the word with an ‘e’.(h) On the Pretani, see What is British?: Part 1, Friday, January 26. 2007Code: Picts

Links

Ian Adamson – Wikipedia

New Light Schism

Old and New Light – Wikipedia

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John Hewitt- Freeman of Belfast

In his Foreword to the Belfast Poet Dennis Greig’s Morning in Belfast, which I published in 1983 under my imprint Pretani Press, John Hewitt wrote on 10th April 1983, “I first encountered the name of Dennis Greig in 1977 in the booklet Worklines, Belfast working class poetry 1930-1975. Last Autumn I was introduced to him by his friend Dr Ian Adamson, that effective exponent of our Ulster Identity, Since then I have been able to give some attention to a significant body of Greig’s work.”

John Harold Hewitt (28 October 1907-22 June 1987), born in Belfast,  was the most significant Irish poet to emerge before the 1960s generation of poets which included Seamus Heaney, Derek Mahon and Michael Longley. He was appointed the first writer-in-residence at Queen’s University Belfast in 1976. His collections include The Day of the Corncrake (1969) and Out of My Time: Poems 1969 to 1974 (1974).

John was also made a Freeman of the City of Belfast in 1983, and I was delighted when he asked me to attend. I sat with the great Paddy Devlin. I have since  been honoured to attend similar ceremonies for Van Morrison and my other friend Michael  Longley. And like these other two great Bards of Ulster, John was awarded honorary doctorates by the University of Ulster and Queen’s University Belfast.

From November 1930 to 1957, John held positions in the Belfast Museum and Art Gallery. His radical socialist ideals proved unacceptable to the mediocre Belfast Unionist establishment and he was passed over for promotion in 1953. Instead in 1957 he moved to Coventry, a city still rebuilding following its devastation during the Second World War. John was appointed Director of the Herbert Art Gallery and Museum where he worked until retirement in 1972.

John had an active political life, like myself describing himself as “a man of the left”, and was involved in the British Labour Party, the Fabian Society and the Belfast Peace League. My father John Adamson was a founder member of the Northern Ireland Labour Party and stood for election in North Down . Like most of my own  family John Hewitt was attracted to the Ulster dissenting tradition and was drawn to a concept of regional identity within the island of Ireland, describing his identity as Ulster, Irish, British and European. John officially opened the Belfast Unemployed Resource Centre (BURC) Offices on May Day 1985.

Words by John Hewitt on the Cushendun Stone.

His life and work are celebrated in two prominent ways – the annual John Hewitt International Summer School – and, less conventionally, a Belfast pub is named after him – the John Hewitt Bar and Restaurant, which is situated on the city’s Donegall Street and which opened in 1999. The bar was named after him as he officially opened the Belfast Unemployed Resource Centre, which owns the establishment. It is a popular meeting place for local writers, musicians, journalists, students and artists. Both the Belfast Festival at Queen’s and the Belfast Film Festival use the venue to stage events.

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Cultural divisions in Northern Ireland – Myth or Reality

“Cultural divisions in Northern Ireland – Myth or Reality” are notes for a Radio Interview I gave in Paris at 10.30 am on Friday 29th April 1983, when I was asked to speak to senior scholars at the Sorbonne University. I have always been well received there and have since lectured in the university on my work, which academics here wish to burn, trapped as they are in reactionary nationalist ideologies. The notes also formed the basis of a talk given there to 23 Young people from the Farset Youth Project , under the leadership of Jackie Hewitt, Ann Brown and the inestimable Fred Proctor from the Shankill Road.

Culture is total range of activities and ideas of a group of people with shared traditions which are transmitted and reinforced by members of the group.

I was born in Bangor and reared in Conlig a village between Bangor and Newtownards.  From the hills of Conlig you can see Galloway on a clear day.  I was descended from the Sloans of Kinelarty through my two grandmothers who were sisters.  One grandfather Robert Kerr from Lanarkshire in Scotland was a devotee of James Keir Hardy and fought for the flame of idealism, and working for socialism and the unemployed.  I travelled extensively in my youth through the Highlands of Scotland with my grandfather, to the Isle of Skye were I was taught the legend of Cuchulainn, to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis and to Galloway where he taught me about the Covenanters

I learned that  Gaelic speakers on the Scottish Highlands and Islands were both Roman Catholic and Protestant but were in the majority Protestant.  The first book printed in Irish Gaelic was the Book of Common Order commonly called John Knox’s Liturgy, published in Edinburgh in 1567 for the use of Presbyterians.  Scottish Gaelic was not a literary language until the early 17th Century.  Old British or Brittonic was displaced in Ireland by Gaelic just as the English language displaced Gaelic.  When Gaelic was planted on the British mainland its verbal system was on along the lines of the Brittonic language.  Scottish Gaelic was to preserve archaic features now lost in Irish Gaelic.

The division of Ulster Gaelic from that of the rest of Ireland developed well before the arrival of English in the 17th century and there was an increasing influence of Scottish Gaelic on Ulster.  TF O’Rahilly in 1932 outlined the features which distinguished the two languages and regarded the position of word stress as the most important of these. The southern language of Gaelic stretches from south County Meath running through West Meath to Longford in Co Galway.  This is more than homogenous than the Ulster dialects. Modern Irish Gaelic was basically developed from Munster and Connaught dialects.

In 1770 Ulster Lallans or Ullans was used by Rhyming Weaver poets until about 1870.  My ancestor Edward Sloan of Conlig was one of these.  Allan Ramsay was a member of the Easy Club along with the Jacobite leader Dr Archibald Pitcairn and had strong Jacobite sympathies following the 1715 rising.  During the occupation of Edinburgh in 1745 he was a highly respected figure but probably disproved of Prince Charles Edward Stuart’s policy of invading England.  He supported the aims of the French moderate Cardinal Fleury who died shortly before the beginning of the1745 Rising.

Ramsay lived to influence the Whig “Pacifiers” following defeat at Culloden Moor.  “The Gentle Shepherd” deals with the Restoration of the Stuarts following the Cromwellian interregnum. It contains Jenny an early advocate of Women’s Liberation.   Ramsay stands midway between the Scots renaissance poets Henryson, Gawain Douglas and Dunbar and the later Romantic group, of which Burns personifies the French Revolution, Scott is the product of imperial compromise and McDairmaid adheres to the Russian Revolution.  At first Ramsay appears the least conspicuous but he is the still small voice between the two storms, right at the beginning of the Scottish Enlightenment.

In 555 AD Bangor Monastery was founded on Ulidian territory by Comgal and became the centre of literature both sacred and secular in the 6th and 7th Centuries.  The original Chronicles of Ireland and the poetry The Voyage of Bran were written there.  In the area the old traditions were preserved which were remoulded in to the Gaelic masterpiece “The Tain”.  The Bangor Antiphonary in Latin is an important relic of the Bangor monks.  The peregrinations of Columbanus and Gall are well known in the re-evangelisation of Europe.

In 637 Congal, Prince of the Cruthin attempted to regain the soverainty of the whole North  with help of mainland British allies but was defeated and killed at the Battle of Moira in 637 AD.  Samuel Ferguson the Unionist Poet has said that this was the greatest battle ever fought within the bounds of Ireland.

In Conlig, where I was reared, I learned from my Grandmothers the story of Archibald Wilson the Carpenter of Conlig who was hanged for his part in the United Irish rebellion on 26th  June 1798.   On his grave slab in the Bangor Abbey Graveyard is the poem:

Morn not dear friends, tho’ I’m no more,

Tho’ I was martyred your eyes before

I am not dead but do sleep here.

Yet once more I will appear.

That is when time will be no more

When thel be judged who falsely swore

And them that judged will judged will be

Whether just or onjust then thel see.

Purpere, dear friends, for that grate day

When death dis sumances you away.

I will await you all with due care

In Heaven with joy to meet you there.

History is primarily a record of human relationship with a vast network of variation in the manner of its evolution.  Now is the time to widen its perspective beyond religious and political divide.  People do not change their minds rather their horizons are widened, leading to the comprehension that what we thought was the whole of reality is but a small part of that representation.  Nobody can claim to own reality just as nobody can legitimately claim that theirs is the only view of history.

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The Rev’rend Ravenhill by Edgar Allan Poe

Edgar Allan Poe 

Once upon a midnight dreary, while I pondered weak and weary,
Over many a quaint and curious volume of forgotten lore,
While I nodded, nearly napping, suddenly there came a tapping,
As of some one gently rapping, rapping at my chamber door.
`’Tis some visitor,’ I muttered, `tapping at my chamber door –
Only this, and nothing more.

Ah, distinctly I remember it was in the bleak December,
And each separate dying ember wrought its ghost upon the floor.
Eagerly I wished the morrow; – vainly I had sought to borrow
From my books surcease of sorrow – sorrow for the lost Before –
For the rare and radiant Era which the angels name Before –
Nameless here for evermore.

And the silken sad uncertain rustling of each purple curtain
Thrilled me – filled me with fantastic terrors never felt before;
So that now, to still the beating of my heart, I stood repeating
‘Tis some visitor entreating entrance at my chamber door –
Some late visitor entreating entrance at my chamber door; –
This it is, and nothing more,’

Presently my soul grew stronger; hesitating then no longer,
`Sir,’ said I, `or Madam, truly your forgiveness I implore;
But the fact is I was napping, and so gently you came rapping,
And so faintly you came tapping, tapping at my chamber door,
That I scarce was sure I heard you’ – here I opened wide the door; –
Darkness there, and nothing more.

Deep into that darkness peering, long I stood there wondering, fearing,
Doubting, dreaming dreams no mortal ever dared to dream before;
But the silence was unbroken, and the darkness gave no token,
And the only word there spoken was the whispered word, `No-more!’
This I whispered, and an echo murmured back the word, `No-more!’
Merely this and nothing more.

Back into the chamber turning, all my soul within me burning,
Soon again I heard a tapping somewhat louder than before.
`Surely,’ said I, `surely that is something at my window lattice;
Let me see then, what thereat is, and this mystery explore –
Let my heart be still a moment and this mystery explore; –
‘Tis the wind and nothing more!’

Open here I flung the shutter, when, with many a flirt and flutter,
In there stepped a stately Rev’rend of the saintly days of yore.
Not the least obeisance made he; not a minute stopped or stayed he;
But, with mien of lord or lady, stood beside my chamber door –
Stood beside a bust of Peter Pan above my chamber door –
Came, and sat, and nothing more.

Startled at the stillness broken by reply so aptly spoken,
`Doubtless,’ said I, `what he utters is his only stock and store,
Caught from some unhappy master whom unmerciful disaster
Followed fast and followed faster till his songs one burden bore –
Till the dirges of his hope that melancholy burden bore
Of “Never-never-never-more.”‘
`
And the Rev’rend, never flitting, still is sitting, still is sitting
By the pallid bust of Peter just beside my chamber door;
And his eyes have all the seeming of a spirit’s that is dreaming,
And the lamp-light o’er him streaming throws his shadow on the floor;
And my soul from out that shadow that lies floating on the floor
Shall be lifted – nevermore!

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Sir Arthur Chichester, Lord Deputy of Ireland, (died 1624), by Joseph Francis Bigger M.R.I.A. (Ulster Journal of Archaeology, Vol X , Belfast, 1904) Part 5

But this sweep, ample as it was, did not reconcile Chichester to the disappointment of not being able to secure, as his share, the great Irish territory in Upper Clannaboy, then and still known as Castlereagh, extending southward from the shore of Belfast Lough, below Holywood, to the neighbourhood of Lisburn ; its green slopes overlooking the valley of the Lagan and much of the Antrim coast. On this great territory, now divided into the two modern baronies of Upper and Lower Castlereagh, he had set his heart, first riding about its fields and around its boundaries at the head of his flying column from Carrickfergus. Its chieftain, Con O’Neill, had taken a prominent place in the then northern revolt against Elizabeth, and, as a matter of course, had thus forfeited his lands to the Crown ; which lands Chichester felt pretty confident he would very soon be able to secure for himself. It so happened, however, that suddenly, and to the great surprise of both friends and foes, Con O’Neill deserted the Irish cause and surrendered himself to the Queen. As a likely means of encouraging other Irish leaders to follow in Con’s footsteps, Elizabeth gladly accepted his surrender and restored him to his lands : thus Chichester’s cherished anticipations were frustrated, and to make matters worse, he was obliged to assist Con in re-entering and keeping possession of his castle and lands ; for no sooner did his desertion of the Irish become known, than his kinsman, Bryan MacArt O’Neill, seized Castlereagh and held it for the Northern Lords until Chichester and Con together succeeded, after much delay, in regaining the castle for its rightful owner.

When Con, however, had time to look over his lands, he found that he had not returned a moment too soon to preserve his tenantry from the attacks of Chichester and his soldiers. It happened, unfortunately, soon afterwards, in the closing days of Elizabeth’s life, that some of Con’s servants had engaged in a brawl with certain of the Queen’s tax-gatherers, who had been appointed at Belfast, and in this fight one of the latter was killed. Thereupon Chichester instantly sprang upon Con, had him thrown into a dungeon at Carrickfergus, and had judges and jurors prepared to try him on a charge of high treason in levying war on Her Majesty, and what not. Chichester believed that he had here another, and a still better, opportunity of finally disposing of Con, and of thus, after all, securing the green slopes of Castlereagh that looked down so temptingly upon the ford of Belfast ; but he was again doomed to fail, and this second disappointment he must have felt even more bitterly than his first.

During Con’s imprisonment at Carrickfergus his devoted wife kept hovering constantly around his place of confinement, thus attracting the notice and sympathy of Anna Dobbin, the daughter of the chief gaoler in the old castle. On an evening when these two ladies were talking not unlikely condoling together over the approaching doom of the prisoner, in came two Scottish gentlemen brothers named Montgomery, one of whom was Anna Dobbin’s accepted suitor, and soon afterwards became her husband. Being formally introduced to Lady O’Neill (for Con had been dubbed an English knight), these gentlemen announced that the Queen was dead, and that their King, James VI., was being everywhere proclaimed as her successor. From this starting-point the little company entered into a free and friendly talk about public affairs in general. The Montgomerys had heard of Con O’Neill’s arrest, and expressed their abhorrence in no measured terms of Chichester’s conduct in the affair. From Irish topics the conversation turned to Scotland, where, as the visitors stated, there was then a widespread expectation that Ulster was soon to be planted with English and Scottish settlers. These Montgomerys, although from Largs, were nearly related to the Montgomerys of Braidstane, who had been then taking much pains to understand the exact position in Ulster, and regularly communicating to the Scottish king whatever information they could obtain on the subject. For much of this information the Braidstane Montgomerys were indebted to these gentlemen from Largs, who owned two trading vessels, and had thus frequent opportunities of visiting the coasts of Ulster.

To this conversation Lady O’Neill kept listening intently, and when it drew to an end she came forward solemnly to the speakers and said that her husband and she would willingly and thankfully give the half of their whole lands to anyone who would obtain his pardon from the King. The two Montgomerys seemed at first astounded : they stared for an instant at each other ; then consulted together ; and finally turning to Lady O’Neill, they proposed that she should return with them that afternoon to Largs ; that they would accompany her the next day to Braidstane, and that she could there make her offer to the laird of that ilk, as there was certainly no time to be lost in making any efforts that could yet possibly be made for her husband’s safety. Lady O’Neill accepted their counsel with grateful emotion, and delightedly rendered her entire acquiescence in the arrangement thus proposed. They found the Laird of Braidstane eagerly anxious to assist, but only on the condition that Con O’Neill should be rescued by some means from prison, and thus enabled to accompany him into the presence of the King.

The party from Largs then returned thither in hot haste, re-crossing the channel to Carrickfergus. Hugh Montgomery of Braidstane, afterwards Lord Viscount Montgomery of the Great Ardes, saw at a glance how significant this offer on the part of Lady O’Neill might be made, both for himself and his two kinsmen, who had so interested themselves in the affair ; but he felt also that whilst he would be engaged in negotiations with the King, the prisoner might be executed, as the time of his trial drew very near, and therefore he urged on all concerned the absolute necessity of Con’s immediate rescue. Fortunately, Anna Dobbin, through sympathy and pity for the O’Neills, and from the urgent solicitations of her intended husband, not only connived at Con’s escape, but even arranged the only means by which it could be accomplished. The escape was not discovered until Con had time to hide himself in the ruins of an old church at Donaghadee ; and before Chichester could find his place of concealment, a little boat had carried him out into the channel to a friendly vessel that soon conveyed him to Largs ; and so Chichester lost his second and last opportunity of getting into Castlereagh.

Montgomery, however, obtained eventually one-third of Con O’Neill’s lands. For although the King had sanctioned the conditions of the original agreement for the full half thereof, James Hamilton, afterwards Lord Viscount Clandeboy, had also supplied James VI. with much information about Ireland, and had rendered other services, and was thus able to induce him to divide Con’s estates into three parts one for Con, one for Montgomery, and one for Hamilton. Out of Con’s third part, however, one of that generous Irish chieftain’s first grants indeed we think the very first was made by him to the two Montgomerys of Largs, and an ample grant of lands in perpetuity it was whereon Anna Dobbin and her husband lived happily until the end of their days.

Concluded

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Sir Arthur Chichester, Lord Deputy of Ireland, (died 1624), by Joseph Francis Bigger M.R.I.A. (Ulster Journal of Archaeology, Vol X , Belfast, 1904) Part 4

The region over which Sir Arthur Chichester thus became Governor had been known time immemorial as one of the most important in Ulster. Its original extent varied somewhat in the lapse of time and according to local circumstances, but it was generally understood to comprehend the greater portions of the present counties of Down and Antrim, stretching from Carlingford Bay in the south to the mountain of Sliev Mis in the north. Its earliest recorded name was Dalaraidhe (Dalaradia), or the country owned by the family or descendants of Araidhe a prince who lived at an early period in Ulster history. With this people were afterwards associated many members of a kindred tribe known as Cruithne (Cruthin or Pretani), or wheat-growers sometimes called Picts, or painted, from Cruith, ” colour” and descended from Irial Glunmore (son of the famous Conall Cearnach) and a daughter of Eochy, the ruler or King of the Cruithne in Scotland. Dal-Araidhe, however, continued to retain its original name, although its limits were then supposed to be Newry on the south and Glenravel on the north.

When the three Collas conquered southern Ulster in the fourth century, the dwellers on the conquered lands were obliged to seek shelter in Dalaraidhe, which from that time, although only a fragment of Ulster, was known as Ulaidh, or Ulidia. In later times, and because of some unknown territorial arrangements, the name of this section or division of Ulster appears in public records as Trian Congal, or ” Congal’s Third,” Congal being, no doubt, a prince of the royal house of the Ui Cairill (O’Carroll), and this division his allotted share. By this last name it was known on the arrival of the English under De Courcy ; but after its seizure by the O’Neills, the whole region, until the seventeenth century, was called Clannaboy Clann-Aedh-buidhe from a chieftain named Hugh O’Neill, surnamed Buidhe, “of the yellow hair.” The River Lagan divided the whole region into nearly two equal parts, the southern part being designated as Upper and the northern as Lower Clannaboy.

When Chichester entered on his work he was put in command of a strong military force of picked men, including, of course, the garrison at Carrickfergus, whilst his officers were men specially after his own heart ; in other words, thoroughly in sympathy with their commander’s policy and aims. During the seven years of his governorship at Carrickfergus, from 1597 until 1604, among his officers were Moses Hill, Fulke Conway, Hugh Clotworthy, Francis Stafford, Robert Norton, Henry Upton, Roger Langford, and John Dalway. It speaks volumes for the zeal and determination with which these men must have ” served their Queen,” that they all succeeded in carving out and obtaining large estates for themselves, and that they all, coming to Dalaraidhe, or Clannaboy, with nothing but their clothes, and perhaps their swords, accomplished, with one exception, the grand ambition of founding families throughout this celebrated portion of Ulster.

Sir Moses Hill, the founder of the Downshire family, made his home in Upper or Southern Clannaboy ; Sir Fulke Conway, the founder of the Hertford family, got possession of Killultagh, a separate district, then belonging neither to Antrim nor to Down ; Sir Hugh Clotworthy, the founder of the Massereene family, took up his quarters on the western shore of Lough Neagh ; Sir Francis Stafford’s broad lands lay a little further north-west, and along the green banks of the Lower Bann ; Sir Roger Langford selected lands on the eastern shore of Lough Neagh, opposite Massereene, and including the celebrated Irish territory of Killmacavitt ; Sir Robert Norton’s estate lay along the Six-Mile-Water, and on it stood the old town of the Temple of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem (the estate, however, passed to the Upton family of Templepatrick) ; Sir John Dalway, after much wandering and many vicissitudes, found at last a resting-place on the picturesque slopes of Bellahill, near Carrickfergus ; and last of all, but certainly not least, Chichester himself, the founder of the Donegall family, secured a very great sweep of Lower Clannaboy, reaching northward from the Lagan to the boundaries of the Templetown and Langford Lodge Estates, and thence north-eastward until it included Carrickfergus and the adjoining lands.

To be continued

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Sir Arthur Chichester, Lord Deputy of Ireland, (died 1624), by Joseph Francis Bigger M.R.I.A. (Ulster Journal of Archaeology, Vol X , Belfast, 1904) Part 3

It would be unkind if we did not here parenthetically record the charitable action of MacDonnell in regard to these same Spanish castaways. Theirs, indeed, was a hard lot. The best blood of Spain young nobles from a southern clime inflated with the arrogance of power and wealth, crusading, as they thought, in a worthy cause, shattered by the elements, hunted by their enemies, unsuccoured by their friends. All along the western coast of Ireland, wherever a Spanish galleon took shelter after that awful run around the Hebrides, the poor half-famished soldiers were mercilessly butchered. Better, far better, was the lot of those who sank in mid-ocean, or yielded up their lives in the breaking waves of the strand or on the cruel rocks of an angry coast.

It was excusable in Fitzwilliam, the English deputy, to give no quarter to the Spaniard, his country’s bitterest foe ; but of many of the Irish better was expected. Had not the Spaniard assailed their conqueror, their enemy ? Were they not of their own religion, and would-be friends ? Sligo men vied with those of Clare in their inhuman actions plundering the wrecks, stripping or murdering the poor distracted wretches that clung to floating planks and spars ;or worse still, yielding them for favour to the Viceroy, to be marched in shackles to Dublin, and there butchered by dozens in the castle yard.

The inducements held out to the Irish and the threats used to act thus, scarcely excuse them in their actions. The loyalty drawn out by Sir John Perrot, the greatest and truest of all the Viceroys, should not have forced them to act so inhumanly. It is a dark passage in a dark time, and has sombre lessons. Be this as it may, to MacDonnell of Dunluce pre-eminently belongs the place of honour in having succoured those who were in dire distress defiantly refusing to hand over the wretches who had fled to him for safety, and those flung by the waves at the foot of his fortress cas tle knowing well the enemies he was thus making preferring to give them every assistance and safe transport back to Spain, through his many friends in Scotland.

MacDonnell complained angrily to the Government that soldiers from the garrison at Carrickfergus had been sent illegally over his lands to plunder and spoil such of his tenants as refused to pay the imposed taxes. The English authorities in Ireland, unwilling, through their own weakness, to drive this powerful chieftain into the ranks of the enemy, recommended that the two knights thus so threateningly opposed to each other, should have a personal meeting to arrange an amicable settlement of the several points in dispute. A day was appointed for the interview, and Sir James MacDonnell, with a multitude of his hardy Scots, went early southward to be present in due time at the place of meeting near Carrickfergus. Suspecting what afterwards really happened that some treacherous attempt might be made on his liberty or life, he left the greater part of his troops at a place called Altfracken, near the present village of Ballycarry, and went forward with a small company of personal friends and attendants.

He saw at a glance, however, that Sir John Chichester, who had come with a formidable array, had some sinister design in view, and accordingly, when MacDonnell commenced rather hastily to retire from the meeting, a rush was made upon his small party by the opposing force from the garrison. The pursuit, however, suddenly came to an end, for the whole Scottish force was up and around their leader just in time to save him and his friends. Sir John Chichester fell soon after the fight commenced, and his force fled in all directions some back to their garrison, some into Island Magee, others taking refuge in various places throughout the district. Among the refugees was Sir Moses Hill, then an unknown lieutenant, who found a hiding-place in a cave in Island Magee, which cave is known by his name to this day. Among the runners also was Lieutenant Dobbs the first of his name in the district and he ingloriously retreated under a bridge until the danger had passed. Another runaway was Lieutenant John Dalway, who concealed himself for a time in the dry flow or ooze left by the shallow water that had once separated Island Magee from the mainland.

The survivors of the English force were in such haste away from the Glen of Altfracken that they did not even attempt to carry with them the body of their dead Governor. Sir James MacDonnell had it brought to a flat stone and decapitated, sending the head to the camp of O’Neill and O’Donnell, who were then in Tyrone, where it was made a football by the rude gallowglass of the army. This little barbarity was done, no doubt, by way of encouragement to the Irish leaders, and also as an act of retaliation against the English, who had previously thus mutilated the body of MacDonnell’s elder brother, Alexander, sending the head to be stuck up on a spike in front of Dublin Castle. Sir James MacDonnell, after that day’s achievement, retired quietly to Dunluce Castle, where he was permitted to dwell in peace until the time of his death in 1601.

The news of the conflict at Altfracken brought consternation to the English in Ulster, and deep deliberation amongst the authorities in Dublin as to whom they should appoint to the governorship at Carrickfergus. The mandate, however, soon came from London that Sir Arthur Chichester was to succeed his brother; and although Sir James MacDonnell and others remonstrated against this appointment, the Queen quickly made it final, knowing through some influential channel that Sir Arthur would not only be well able to give a good account of the Irish throughout Upper and Lower Clannaboy, but would also keep a sharp look-out on the Scots in the Route and Glynns.

To be continued

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Sir Arthur Chichester, Lord Deputy of Ireland, (died 1624), by Joseph Francis Bigger M.R.I.A. (Ulster Journal of Archaeology, Vol X , Belfast, 1904) Part 2

In whatever capacity, however, Arthur Chichester was originally employed during the first year or two after his coming to Ulster, it is very certain that he must have had ample opportunities of knowing well the condition of this province, and it is equally evident that he availed himself very fully and freely of those opportunities ; in fact he must have made Ulster a special subject of study, as he afterwards, when occasion required, was able to depend upon his practical knowledge of all its leading physical features, as well as of the leading families by which the province was inhabited. He was thus able to draw up attractive and thoroughly intelligible reports for the Queen and her Council, not only on the general state of Ulster, but on any, or indeed every, part thereof; for no servitor had previously made himself so well acquainted with its mountains and glens ; its rivers, loughs, islands, and sea-coasts ; its arable lands and vast sweeps of pasturage for the rearing of young cattle ; its bogs, morasses, woods, and extensive forests. In a quiet and comparatively unobtrusive way he must also have gone about collecting information respecting the affairs, public and private, of all the great leading houses, such as those of the O’Neills (in their several branches), the O’Donnells, the O’Cahans, the O’Reillys, the O’Hanlons, and the O’Dohertys ; the Maguires, MacMahons, and even the MacDonnells, a Scottish clan who had possession of the Route and Glynns in Antrim.

All this spying out of the land, and painstaking on the part of Chichester to obtain the necessary information respecting its owners and inhabitants, were undertaken for a very special purpose ; for before he left England it was distinctly understood that Elizabeth’s policy of plantation, which was then being carried out in Munster, would be adopted also in Ulster on the defeat of the Northern Lords. The great house of Desmond, with all its numerous vassals and adherents, had been brought down to utter desolation in the course of a lengthened and bloody struggle, and now Elizabeth’s needy soldiers were dividing amongst themselves the fair lands of the Geraldines. Thus the same class of adventurers in Ulster had here before their eyes a grand precedent, and an almost illimitable reward for their toil. Chichester saw the situation at a glance ; and although there occurred several serious hitches and delays in bringing about his Ulster programme, yet he eventually succeeded in working it out according to his own will, and, as we shall see, largely to his own advantage.

He encouraged all his friends to keep gathering on the Irish spoils instead of spending themselves in the distant colonies of America, maintaining that it would be better ” to work with their hands in the plantations of Ulster than to dance and play in the plantations of Virginia.” The great deeds of Drake or the heroism of Gilbert had little charm for him. He envied not Raleigh and his arcadian dreams of a kingdom in the setting sun, whose great natural wealth should outshine the most opulent of eastern nations ; no, he preferred the more certain reward nearer home, no matter how their acquisition might be brought about, nor even the instruments he used in bringing them to pass. The poetic glamour and Queen-worship which dazzled many of the great sea pirates of Elizabeth’s time shed no ray upon him : his dark evil countenance and morose disposition shadowed forth all the bad and none of the good in that puritanic wave which, half a century later, was to sweep over the face of England. To some extent he may be styled the forerunner of Oliver Cromwell.

Certain events occurred in the year 1597 which brought Chichester to the front more prominently than hitherto, and served to show very plainly to friends and foes what manner of man he was. His brother, Sir John Chichester, at the date named was defeated and slain in a skirmish with the Antrim Scots under Sir James MacDonnell of Dunluce. Although the latter who was the eldest surviving son and heir of the renowned Sorley Boye did not co-operate with the Northern Lords against the Government, he warmly sympathized with them ; and indeed his brothers and leading kinsmen throughout the Route and Glynns took a prominent place in the actual fighting. This course exasperated the English officials in Ulster against the Lord of Dunluce, as they would have naturally felt much more pride in attacking him as an open enemy than in conferring with him as a doubtful friend. Sir James refused point blank to permit his vast estates to be taxed for war purposes on behalf of the Government, and he also refused emphatically to surrender to Sir John Chichester certain noble young Spaniards whose lives he had saved, or hand over some pieces of cannon which he and his brethren had rescued from the wrecks of Spanish galleons and mounted on his castle of Dunluce, which the former had demanded as booty belonging to the Crown, requiring them for the fortress of Carrickfergus.

To be continued

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Sir Arthur Chichester, Lord Deputy of Ireland, (died 1624), by Joseph Francis Bigger M.R.I.A. (Ulster Journal of Archaeology, Vol X , Belfast, 1904) Part I

The action by which Chichester originally introduced himself to public notice was one that did not at first commend itself to the powers that be. He was compelled to make a very hasty retreat from his native place in Devonshire, in consequence of his having been criminally concerned in a highway robbery. With the connivance or assistance of one or two associates, he lay in wait for and robbed a ” Queen’s purveyor,” as a tax-collector was then called ; which offence, however, was of very grave, indeed even terrible, significance, and more especially at that crisis, when Queen Elizabeth very much required all the money that could be hastily collected from her subjects to assist in carrying on her numerous military enterprises in almost every corner of Ireland.

It was generally believed at the time that Chichester had fled directly to France ; but this has since been found to be a mistake, as he went, in the first instance, for refuge to Ireland, where he had an elder brother, John Chichester, and two cousins named Bourchier, who were all servitors of the English at various places in the land. With their connivance, he was able to remain for a time in concealment ; but his retreat being soon discovered, he privately made his escape to France, where he was safe from further pursuit, and where he enlisted as a soldier of fortune.

His astute and daring nature in dealing with enemies soon made him a name in the French service, whilst several of his influential friends in England did not fail to inform the Queen that his exile was a serious loss to her service, especially in Ireland, where soldiers of his particular calibre were then so urgently needed. It soon afterwards came to pass that the offence which had been at first denounced in Devonshire as highway robbery of a very aggravated character, for which the perpetrator had to fly into an enemy’s country for refuge, was condoned and pardoned by the Queen, and then as a matter of course represented to her subjects as a mere youthful frolic.

Chichester was then permitted to return to England, and thence sent with all despatch to serve Her Majesty in Ireland. It was commonly remarked that whilst Elizabeth sent her eagles against Spain, she reserved her vultures for this unhappy country ; and in the present instance the Irish had a very truthful illustration of the fact. Chichester came here about the time of the commencement of the war against the Northern Lords a war which had been largely forced by the cruelties and oppressions of Fitzwilliam, the Lord Deputy, and Sir Henry Bagnall, the Field Marshal in Ulster. The new servitor, on his arrival, found the whole country in commotion, and was soon able to enter upon his work with heart and hand. It does not appear that Chichester was appointed to any military command, as his name is not mentioned in connection with any of the battles or general fighting during this war ; so his duties were probably, for a time at least, those of an assistant to his brother, who had been then recently knighted and appointed Governor of Carrickfergus or correctly speaking, Governor of Upper and Lower Clannaboy, Carrickfergus being his base of operations.

To be continued

 

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